It is with no little trepidation that I have ventured to enlist myself
in the large army of those who have written about Japan, and I can only
plead the following reasons as excuse for having done so. When I first
went to Japan, my main object was to photograph the country to my
heart's content—for my camera has always been, to me, one of the things
which made life most worth living. During my travels, however, I took
copious notes; and as the fortunes of a wanderer led me several times
back again to this beautiful land, these notes became so voluminous
that the suggestion of friends, resident in Japan, that I should embody
my experiences in a book, written round some of my photographs, was an
idea which presented no great difficulty in the way of achievement.
Indeed, interesting experiences were so many, during my three years of
travel in the country, that the most perplexing problem was what to
omit, so as to keep the size of the book within reasonable limits.
Descriptions of many incidents and places have therefore been
ruthlessly expunged in this process of elimination; but in what has
been retained will be found some account of the best of everything I
have learned about Japan.
The beaten tracks, including
as they do the most famous points of interest, are naturally the best
tracks; but in the hope of making the book as readable as possible, I
have included a few experiences I had far from tourist haunts; and, to
lend variety, have added some that befell me during the late war,
together with accounts of the wonderful work of the present-day
artist-craftsmen and of the old-time swordsmiths.
This
letterpress, such as it is, I oiler in all humility, for I make no
pretence to any skill with my pen, and am fully conscious of its many
shortcomings. My object, however, will have been more than attained if
the book should help to make the manners, customs, and scenery of Japan
better known—especially the scenery of some districts which have not
been described in detail before.
I cannot too warmly thank my friends Prof B. H. Chamberlain and Mr. B. W. Mason—joint authors of Murray's Handbook to Japan—for the help their guidance has given me. I wish also to acknowledge
my indebtedness to Messrs. Underwood and Underwood and Messrs. The H.
C. White Co. for permission to reproduce several photographs, made by
myself, of which they own the copyright; to the proprietors of the Century Magazine, The World's Work, and Country Life for leave to reprint accounts of my ascent of Asama-yama, my visit to Namikawa-San, and the work of
the old-time swordsmiths, abbreviated versions of which first appeared
in the columns of these journals; and to Mr. C. J. Tsuchiya for his
consent, received after the body of this work had gone to press, to
quote several extracts from his Guide-book to Hakone. To others, whose
books have given me assistance as well as pleasure, I have made
acknowledgment as I have quoted from them.
Lastly, I
desire to express herewith my most cordial thanks to all those kind
friends in Japan, both foreign and Japanese, who extended to me such
warm hospitality and courtesy, and thus rendered invaluable help in
forming this little record of work, which to me has been a labour of
love.
H. G. PONTING.
London, May 1910.
CHAPTER I
CHAPTER II
CHAPTER III
CHAPTER IV
CHAPTER V
CHAPTER VI
The Rapids of the Katsura-Gawa
CHAPTER VII
The Great Volcanoes, Aso-San and Asama-Yama
CHAPTER VIII
CHAPTER IX
CHAPTER X
CHAPTER XI
CHAPTER XII
CHAPTER XIII
CHAPTER XIV
CHAPTER XV
CHAPTER XVI
CHAPTER XVII
CHAPTER XVIII
CHAPTER XIX
The Old Swordsmiths of Kamakura
CHAPTER XX
Greetings in the Temple Grounds
The Great Bell at Chio-In Temple
Kinkakuji (the Golden Pavilion)
The Pine-Tree Junk at Kinkakuji
A Buddist Priest and Praying-Wheel
A Fortune-Teller at Inari Temple
A Cloisonné Vase for the Emperor
Tea on the Hills and Rice on the Plains
Shooting the Rapids of the Katsura-Gawa
At the Crater's Brink, Aso-San
Photographing at the Crater's Lip, Aso-San
At the Crater's Brink, Asama-Yama
Smoke and Steam rising from Asama's Crater after the Explosin
The Waterfall of Falling Jewels at Yumoto
Travelling by Yama-kago in the Hakoné Mountains
The Hotel across the Lake, Shoji
Fuji from "Three-Days-Moon Lake"
Fuji and the Shira-Ito Waterfall
Approaching Storm on Lake Motosu
Fuji through the Pines of Lake Motosu
(a Telephotograph from a Distance of 15Miles)
Sunset from the Summit of Fuji
("Three-Days-Moon Lake" from the Summit of Fuji)
Japanese Ladies going to the Shrines, Nikko
Vice-Admiral Kamimura and his Daughter Hoshiko
(a Study at Gamman-ga-Fuchi, Nikko)
Happu Konno, the Hunter (in centre)
The Ha-Kei-Tei Inn and Garden at Hikoné
An Old Feudal Castle from the Moat
(by Nagatsuné)
(by Iwamoto Konkwan)
(by Tōshiyōshi)
(by Hirōtōshi)
(Artist unknown)
The Legend of Mio-No-Matsubara
(by Tsu Jinpō)