IN LOTUS-LAND JAPAN

Herbert George Ponting

picture0UNDER THE PURPLE WISTARIAS

PREFACE

It is with no little trepidation that I have ventured to enlist myself in the large army of those who have written about Japan, and I can only plead the following reasons as excuse for having done so. When I first went to Japan, my main object was to photograph the country to my heart's content—for my camera has always been, to me, one of the things which made life most worth living. During my travels, however, I took copious notes; and as the fortunes of a wanderer led me several times back again to this beautiful land, these notes became so voluminous that the suggestion of friends, resident in Japan, that I should embody my experiences in a book, written round some of my photographs, was an idea which presented no great difficulty in the way of achievement. Indeed, interesting experiences were so many, during my three years of travel in the country, that the most perplexing problem was what to omit, so as to keep the size of the book within reasonable limits. Descriptions of many incidents and places have therefore been ruthlessly expunged in this process of elimination; but in what has been retained will be found some account of the best of everything I have learned about Japan.
    The beaten tracks, including as they do the most famous points of interest, are naturally the best tracks; but in the hope of making the book as readable as possible, I have included a few experiences I had far from tourist haunts; and, to lend variety, have added some that befell me during the late war, together with accounts of the wonderful work of the present-day artist-craftsmen and of the old-time swordsmiths.
    This letterpress, such as it is, I oiler in all humility, for I make no pretence to any skill with my pen, and am fully conscious of its many shortcomings. My object, however, will have been more than attained if the book should help to make the manners, customs, and scenery of Japan better known—especially the scenery of some districts which have not been described in detail before.
    I cannot too warmly thank my friends Prof B. H. Chamberlain and Mr. B. W. Mason—joint authors of Murray's Handbook to Japan—for the help their guidance has given me. I wish also to acknowledge my indebtedness to Messrs. Underwood and Underwood and Messrs. The H. C. White Co. for permission to reproduce several photographs, made by myself, of which they own the copyright; to the proprietors of the Century Magazine, The World's Work, and Country Life for leave to reprint accounts of my ascent of Asama-yama, my visit to Namikawa-San, and the work of the old-time swordsmiths, abbreviated versions of which first appeared in the columns of these journals; and to Mr. C. J. Tsuchiya for his consent, received after the body of this work had gone to press, to quote several extracts from his Guide-book to Hakone. To others, whose books have given me assistance as well as pleasure, I have made acknowledgment as I have quoted from them.
    Lastly, I desire to express herewith my most cordial thanks to all those kind friends in Japan, both foreign and Japanese, who extended to me such warm hospitality and courtesy, and thus rendered invaluable help in forming this little record of work, which to me has been a labour of love.

H. G. PONTING.

London, May 1910.

CONTENS


CHAPTER I 

Tokyo Bay

CHAPTER II

The Temples of Kyoto

CHAPTER III

The Artist-Craftsmen of Kyoto

CHAPTER IV

Uji and the Fireflies

CHAPTER V

Nara--The Heart of Old Japan

CHAPTER VI

The Rapids of the Katsura-Gawa

CHAPTER VII

The Great Volcanoes, Aso-San and Asama-Yama

CHAPTER VIII

Miyanoshita and Lake Hakoné

CHAPTER IX

Shōji, and the Base of Fuji

CHAPTER X

An Ascent of Fuji-San

CHAPTER XI

The Flower Festivals of Tokyo

CHAPTER XII

Concerning Japanese Women

CHAPTER XIII

The House and the Children

CHAPTER XIV

Nikko and Chuzenji

CHAPTER XV

Matsushima and Yezo

CHAPTER XVI

The Bay of Enoura

CHAPTER XVII

Hikoné and it's Castle

CHAPTER XVIII

Kamakura and Enoshima

CHAPTER XIX

The Old Swordsmiths of Kamakura

CHAPTER XX

The Inland Sea and Miyajima

ILLUSTRATIONS

IN COLOUR

Under the Purple Wistarias

Greetings in the Temple Grounds

Nara, the Heart of Old Japan

Autumn at Miyanoshita

At the Chrysanthemum Show

A Shower in the Woods

Reflections

Passing the Lantern

IN MONOCHROME

The Great Bell at Chio-In Temple

Moonlight at Kiyomizu-Dera

A Bamboo Avenue at Kyoto

Kinkakuji (the Golden Pavilion)

The Pine-Tree Junk at Kinkakuji

A Buddhist Abbot

A Buddist Priest and Praying-Wheel

A Fortune-Teller at Inari Temple

An Avenue of Torii at Inari

The Bronze Sculptor

The Ivory Carvers

The Embroiderer

The Potter at his Wheel

Painting Pottery for Export

A Cloisonné Vase for the Emperor

Namikawa-San feeding his Carp

Namikawa's Workroom

Tea on the Hills and Rice on the Plains

Peasant Women heading Barley

On a Pilgrimage to Nara

My Dear! (A Study at Nara)

Shooting the Rapids of the Katsura-Gawa

A Glen on the Katsura-Gawa

The Indispensable Geisha

Summer Negligée at Kumamoto

At the Crater's Brink, Aso-San

A Public Bath at Kanawa

Photographing at the Crater's Lip, Aso-San

At the Crater's Brink, Asama-Yama

Smoke and Steam rising from Asama's Crater after the Explosin

The Waterfall of Falling Jewels at Yumoto

Travelling by Yama-kago in the Hakoné Mountains

Fuji from Lake Shoji

The Hotel across the Lake, Shoji

Fuji from "Three-Days-Moon Lake"

Fuji from Nishi-No-Umi

Fuji at Sunrise

Fuji and the Kaia Grass

Fuji from Lake Motosu

Fuji and the Shira-Ito Waterfall

Approaching Storm on Lake Motosu

Fuji-San

Fuji through the Pines of Lake Motosu

Fuji from Nakano-kura-toge

The Nara Pagoda

Fuji and the Pine-Trees

The Crest of Fuji

(a Telephotograph from a Distance of 15Miles)

The Holy Crater of Fuji-San

A Shinto Priest

Sunset from the Summit of Fuji

Two Miles above the Clouds

("Three-Days-Moon Lake" from the Summit of Fuji)

Cherry-Blossom Time in Japan

A Wistaria Arbour at Kameido

In an Iris Garden

In Lotus-Land

Kameido

Geisha

Geisha dancing

A Maid of Fair Japan

Prinking up for the Day

En Déshabillé

Japanese Ladies going to the Shrines, Nikko

December in Japan

Vice-Admiral Kamimura and his Daughter Hoshiko

A Study by the Shoji

Writing a Letter

Bed-Time in Japan

The Picture-Book

The Cryptomerias at Nikko

The Yomei Gate at Nikko

Meditation

(a Study at Gamman-ga-Fuchi, Nikko)

Kegon-No-Taki

Lake Chuzenji

Nantai-Zan and Lake Chuzenji

On Matsushima Bay

At Matsushima

A Sea-worn Arch at Matsushima

Ainu Man and Women at Home

Happu Konno, the Hunter (in centre)

and two Ainu Fishermen

Moonlight at Shizu-Ura

A Fisherman's Children

The Pines of Shizu-Ura

The Ha-Kei-Tei Inn and Garden at Hikoné

An Old Feudal Castle from the Moat

Hikoné

On Tokyo Bay

A Lotus Pond

Amida, the Buddha

A Priest of Buddha

The Tree and the Wave

The Great Bell of Chio-In

(by Nagatsuné)

The Escape of Yoshitsuné

(by Iwamoto Konkwan)

A Sennin

(by Tōshiyōshi)

The "Old Couple Takasago"

(by Hirōtōshi)

The Three Sages

(Artist unknown)

The Legend of Mio-No-Matsubara

(by Tsu Jinpō)

Evening on the Inland Sea

Miyajima

The Old Torii at Miyajima

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